DIAMOND GUIDE
How to Read a Diamond
Cut, colour, clarity, carat — and when a lab grown diamond is the better choice.
FROM OUR ZURICH ATELIER
A Stone for a Lifetime
A diamond is chosen once and worn for decades. Its value and its beauty come from four qualities that every gemmologist reads in the same way: cut, colour, clarity and carat weight — the four Cs.
On this page we explain them the way we explain them at the bench, and where they matter less than you might think. Because in the end the right diamond is not the one with the best numbers, but the one that looks right on your hand.
THE FIRST C · CUT
Cut Decides the Light
Cut is the only quality made by human hands, and the one that shows most. A well cut diamond returns light to the eye as brilliance and fire; a poorly cut one looks glassy, even with a fine colour.
Shape is a matter of taste: the round brilliant with its 57 facets sparkles most, the emerald cut shows calm, mirror-like steps, oval, pear and marquise lengthen the finger, princess and cushion feel modern or romantic. We help you see the difference on your own hand.
THE SECOND AND THIRD C · COLOUR AND CLARITY
Colour and Clarity
White diamonds are graded on a scale from D, entirely colourless, to Z, with a light yellow or brown tint. Between D and H the difference is barely visible to the eye once the stone is set. Fancy colours such as yellow, champagne, grey or black follow their own rules and are valued for the intensity of their colour.
Clarity describes natural inclusions, from flawless (FL) through VVS and VS to SI and I. A VS or good SI stone usually looks perfectly clean without a loupe, and leaves more room for size or a better cut.
THE FOURTH C · CARAT
Weight, Not Size
One carat equals 0.2 grams. Carat is a measure of weight, not of how large a stone looks: a well cut diamond can appear larger than a heavier one that is cut too deep.
Prices rise sharply at round weights such as 0.50 or 1.00 carat. A stone just below these marks looks the same and is often noticeably more favourable. Together, the four Cs determine the value, and every important stone comes with a certificate from an independent laboratory such as GIA, IGI or HRD.
LAB GROWN DIAMONDS
The Same Stone, Grown Differently
A lab grown diamond is a real diamond: pure carbon with the same crystal structure, hardness and fire as a mined stone. It is grown in a few weeks, by high pressure and high temperature (HPHT) or by chemical vapour deposition (CVD), and can only be told apart from a natural diamond with laboratory equipment.
It is graded by the same four Cs, certified by laboratories such as IGI or GIA and always declared as lab grown. For the same budget it allows a larger or finer stone. Every Lesunja design can be made with a natural or a lab grown diamond.
FOR ENGAGEMENT AND WEDDING
A Ring Made for Two
An engagement ring is often the first diamond in a life. We like to design it together: we draw the setting, choose the stone with you from several options and make the ring by hand in our Zurich atelier, in recycled gold or platinum.
With our ring designer you can put together your own engagement or wedding ring online and then refine it with us in person.
Questions about Diamonds
FAQ
Natural or lab grown — which should I choose?
Both are real diamonds. A natural diamond is millions of years old and rare, a lab grown diamond offers more size or quality for the same budget. Many of our clients decide after seeing both side by side in the atelier.
Does my diamond come with a certificate?
Larger stones come with a grading report from an independent laboratory such as GIA, IGI or HRD. In addition, every Lesunja piece comes with our own certificate of authenticity.
Where do your diamonds come from?
Our natural diamonds come from long-standing partners and follow the Kimberley Process. We work with recycled gold and platinum.
Can I bring my own diamond or a family stone?
Yes. We check the stone, advise you on a setting that suits it and make a new piece around it. Old gold can often be melted and reused.
How long does a custom ring take?
Usually about six weeks from the final design, depending on the stone. Please contact us early if you have a date in mind.
Solitaire Rings from the Atelier
Lesunja Solitaire Engagement Ring Yellow Gold Diamond
SFr. 1,500.00
Lesunja Magnifique White Gold Sapphire Diamond Ring
SFr. 2,500.00
Lesunja Magnifique White Gold Solitaire Diamond Ring
SFr. 3,500.00
PERSONAL ADVICE
See the Stones in Person
Numbers describe a diamond, but only the eye decides. Come to our atelier at Europaallee in Zurich or meet us in St. Moritz: we will show you several stones side by side and take the time you need.